Getting off that bus was enough. It really didn’t matter what was next. For in that small dusty and cold mountain village, there wasn’t much next by anyone standards. In the Indian villages of central Mx., once the sun leaves these high elevations, the air temperature drops to freezing.. Once darkness falls there is none to be seen or heard. We needed a place to crash, something to eat, and a beer.
He always likes that feeling of needing something to eat. Not a place to eat, but something to consume for simple but essential nourishment. Often they would walk by small partially shuttered dwellings and just announce our presence and intention. Then moments later a woman would emerge, having just fed her own and offer us some leftovers of sorts. A tortilla can wrap itself around just about anything.
The old man was sleeping on the dusty couch near an old barrel stove, smelling of wood smoke. Yes we could all three share a small room for nearly nothing by American standards. Everything dark but for the dried bug florescent light buzzing overhead. He turned it off as usual and lit some small candles retrieved from his pack. He liked to sit and look at the map in the candlelight. Strange, but relaxing, and possibly comforting. Now how about that beer?
Walking the very quiet street they saw the fire light burning from beneath an old wooden swing door. Men were talking. And upon entering, he could see 8-10 men huddled around a woodstove rubbing their hands together, sharing tales, and drinking as men do. A few were startled by the two gringos, but their Mexican friend smiled and assured them of their good intentions. Smiles all around and a moment later they were warming up well and wetting the dry dusty well, as well. 
The limited language exchange poses obvious barriers. However, he had learned how to engage with the eyes. This universal understanding goes far in foreign environs, along with the passionate interactions of a good friend and interpreter. “Ask him to tell me more about his father growing up, and what does he think about during the day while tending his farm fields?” It was in this way that he was able to see behind the great curtain of Oz.
